At a time in the world when many vernacular architectural traditions are being forsaken for modern industrial materials, the desert village of Esfahak in Iran offers an inspiring example of development that has chosen to walk a different path. A handful of young men from Esfahak made the unique decision to restore and revive their long abandoned adobe village. Their work has been achieved to such a high standard the village has received international recognition as one of the best Tourism villages in 2024 by the United Nations World Tourism Organisation. This is their story…
In 1978 the Tabas region was shattered by a 7.8 magnitude earthquake affecting 90 villages. The city of Tabas was completely devastated and 11000 people lost their lives. Esfahak though not entirely destroyed, also had many earthen houses collapse. Within the tiny community of 150 people 85 lost their lives. The event was a catastrophe that would haunt this community for generations.
The survivors abandoned the old village and resettled anew a few hundred metres away, leaving behind not only their homes but also their architectural traditions. Fired brick and reinforced cement concrete construction replaced the architectural legacy handed down over generations.
For most the memories of that day continued to haunt them. In their efforts to erase the memories, some tore down whatever remained of their homes. Reclaiming land for agricultural fields from the ruins, making use of the abundant spring water. For years the old village came to be referred to as ’the old soil’ (gel - e kohneh).
In 2012 a group of young men from the village decided to come together to restore the village for use as a tourist village. Reviving their cultural heritage and the architectural wisdom of generations past. They sought out traditional elder master craftsmen from within their community and from the villages surrounding them. They encouraged them to once again take up their craft, sharing their ancient techniques with an arising new generation of Master Craftsmen.
Us Habib was one of them. Now 75 years old, the art of earthen architecture is in his blood. His love of this work is evident. Even at his advanced age he remains fit and continues to work on vault and dome construction in the village. His children encourage him to retire and take life a little easy, yet he prefers to spend his days with his hands in the soil rebuilding these beautiful earthen homes. Despite his love for the work, he does not wish to return to live in the homes he is reconstructing. For him the memories of the aftermath of that fateful day 50 years ago remain with him.
Mohsen was one of the first from the community to raise awareness over the need to protect the village from further destruction. He has restored his ancestral home and now calls it home. Other’s such as Ehsan, are gradually restoring their homes and plan to return to live within them. They hope more will decide to join with time. As of now half a dozen homes have been restored for use as hotels, cafes and restaurants for tourists. The traditional hamam is once again functional and an earthen architecture school and laboratory have been established. Workshops are frequently held for student architects and a regular flow of volunteers pass through contributing their energy to this exceptional project.
Us Hussein is one of the new generations of Master Craftsmen. His precision work and commitment to the use of only adobe and earthen mortars along with traditional techniques is ensuring the ongoing intergenerational transmission of these ancient techniques. His work is also pushing new boundaries. At the time of my visit work was underway for an attempt at constructing the world’s largest earthen adobe vault, at nine metres wide and seven and half metres high. Just as these traditions had been adapted over time to reach where they are now, Us Hussein’s efforts will ensure it remains a traditional, yet modern technique.
The project is entirely community funded and locally owned. They share a common vision and a firm resolution to keep the village in the hands of locals, ensuring their vision of an authentic, entirely earthen reconstruction.
Over the years they have received guidance and support from prominent architects from Tehran - Ar. Faramarz Parsi and Ar. Pouya Khazeli. All work is carried out using traditional materials and techniques. However some adaptations have been made to ensure greater stability and earthquake resilience. Geo-mesh is used along with timber bracing in strategic locations.
Furthermore adaptations for modern comfort have been made, including wet bathrooms and electricity. Lighting throughout the laneways of the village however has been avoided. Instead the use of oil lanterns has been implemented offering a charming ambience reminiscent of another era, whilst ensuring optimum conditions for stargazing.
The organic curves of the walls, vaulted roofs and domes all covered in earthen plasters gives the sense of the architecture merging with the landscape around. A lesson in sympathetic architecture that sits within the landscape rather than being imposed upon it. Whilst the homes appear humble from the outside, when one enters the elegance of Persian architecture is revealed. Ornate niches, intricately vaulted ceilings and light wells all combined with earthen and gypsum plasters reveal complex yet subtle ornamentation.
Esfahak is an exceptional example of community lead tourism development that honours their precious cultural heritage, whilst providing immersive cultural experiences for guests. A visit to this village, spending time in the community alongside these passionate and inspiring young entrepreneurs and Master Craftsmen is an opportunity to experience the joy of life when passion meets purpose.
We are planning an Architectural Tour & Workshop in Iran scheduled for October 2025. Esfahak is one of the many fascinating sites we will be visiting and learning from. Get in touch for more details or check out our workshop page for details
https://www.indiarchitecture.com/workshops
To catch a glimpse of the work happening in Isfahak village follow them on instagram
https://www.instagram.com/mud.esfahk?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet&igsh=ZDNlZDc0MzIxNw==
To learn more about the unique architectural elements within the village see
Paolo Ferrari, E. (2021). From Soil to Domes: Vernacular Architecture and Construction Techniques in Esfahak, South Khurasan. Iran, 62(1), 79–102. https://doi.org/10.1080/05786967.2021.1960883
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/05786967.2021.1960883#d1e130